One Giant Painting, The City of Medellín

Last year at around the end of the summer I became open to the idea of living in another country for some time. Winter was fast approaching and I knew the government would implement lockdowns again. I wasn't ready to go through round two of irrational and overreaching government policies, especially during the winter season in Toronto where temperatures stay below zero until March.

So I started to do some research on possible destinations. I eventually came across all these lists of the best cities for digital nomads to live in. A digital nomad is someone who works remotely and just travels the world while doing so. Some popular digital nomad destinations include Indonesia, Thailand, Mexico, Costa Rica and Colombia.

Even though nomads go anywhere in the world that has a decent wifi connection, there are certain hubs where their presence is strong. One of those hubs is Medellín, Colombia.

When I first learned that Medellín is one of the cities that many digital nomads flock to, I was surprised. I always thought it was a dangerous city that cocaine enthusiasts would go to but never thought it was a place for foreigners to live in. After all, it was home to Pablo Escobar and his drug operations back in the 80s.

However, I was intrigued, so I started doing more research about the city. The more I learned about Medellín the more I wanted to go there. Nicknamed “the city of eternal spring,” Medellín is a valley surrounded by mountains where the weather stays the same year-round. From January to December, the temperature teeters between 22 and 27 degrees.

My criteria for the perfect place to live in the winter were modest. All I wanted was good weather, zero Covid restrictions, cheap living costs, decent nightlife and great living conditions with good wifi. Medellín easily crossed off all of these things and it is also the same timezone as Toronto which was an added benefit.

I also seriously considered other locations like Bali and Thailand but I ultimately chose to go to Medellín as I've always wanted to immerse myself in Latin culture and learn the Spanish language. I was ready to venture out to a new city in a new country all by myself but luckily one of my close friends shared the same thought process as me and wanted to join me.

We touched down in Colombia in late October. We didn't know what to expect. Originally we had planned to stay for at least three months. We knew it would be an amazing experience but worst-case scenario, we can just pick up and go somewhere else if we didn't like it or didn't feel comfortable.

We spent our first month at an Airbnb in an area called Cristo Rey just outside the El Poblado area where all the foreigners and high net worth individuals usually stay. Because we weren't actually in Poblado, our area was a lot more local. Barely any Gringos around and just lumped in with Colombians. For someone that didn't speak any Spanish, this was a bit difficult in the beginning.

At first, I was intimidated because it was such a local area with many questionable characters and not the greatest architecture. But I quickly learned how nice and welcoming the Colombian people are. There is Canadian nice where people open the door for you, and there is Colombian nice where people would literally walk you to the place you want directions to.

I began to embrace starting my time in Medellín living amongst the locals. It was a true Colombian experience that you cant get while living in Poblado. It was an eye-opening experience as I got to witness firsthand what life is like inside the ordinary parts of Colombia. By the end of my time in Cristo Rey, I was grateful to get the chance to live in a true Colombian neighbourhood and mingle with the Medellín locals, also referred to as Paisas.

When our first month came to an end in Cristo Rey, we packed our stuff and moved up into the mountain to one of the nicer areas in Poblado. We settled into a spacious apartment that possessed incredible views of the city. Right beside us was one of the biggest malls in the city and the centre of Poblado was just a five-minute drive away. Here, we felt like we were right at home.

Christmas was just around the corner and let me tell you, Colombians do not take this holiday lightly. The family parties would start up by mid-November on every street corner. But once December hits it goes to a whole new level. Every night we would see fireworks in the sky accompanied by giant red lanterns.

On December 7, on the eve of the Immaculate Conception, Día de las Velitas (Little candles day) marks the unofficial start of the Christmas season in the country. On this night, people place candles and paper lanterns on balconies, porches, sidewalks, streets, parks and squares. It makes sense that Christmas is such a big deal in Colombia since the vast majority of the population are Catholics.

Through living there during the holiday season, I learned that Colombians are really family oriented. Even New Year's Eve, a holiday that is spent partying with friends all night in Western culture, is spent with family in Colombia. The family unit is still very well in place and the people embrace it.

The truth is that Colombia is just another country that is subject to American propaganda. When I first told my friends and family that I was going to live in Colombia for the winter, they thought I was crazy. Everyone just thinks that it is an unsafe country where people go to do drugs or get fake implants for cheap. Even though there is some truth to that, Colombia has a lot more to offer than just Cocaine and fake butts.

As I explored the city of Medellín, I learned how important it is for Paisas to express themselves in the form of art. Whether it’s dancing, singing, or street art, they have a unique approach to storytelling through creative expression.

Colombia, and especially Medellín, has a dark and violent past. Most people in the West think of Pablo Escobar when someone mentions Colombia’s past but he is just a small part of the turbulent past that goes back all the way to the early 1900s. Armed rebel groups known as the Guerrillas have existed far before Escobar arrived to the scene. These groups have been waging wars against the Colombian government and its people for decades, and are responsible for hundreds of thousands of deaths.

During this struggle, Colombians coped and fought back through their artistic prowess. Creative expression was their form of resistance. Walking through the streets of Medellín is like walking through a history exhibit. Every painting has a deeper meaning behind it as the people turned to art as their main form of storytelling.

Although in the last 20 years, Colombia has been moving towards a more peaceful resolve. Over this time, Medellín has transformed itself from being the most dangerous city in the world to one of the premier destinations in South America today.

Part of that transformation into global recognition is the ongoing explosion of talent from the city. International artists like J Balvin, Maluma and Karol G have become household names in the world of Reggaeton and local artists like Feid, Ryan Castro and Blessd are also on the rise.

I was a fan of Reggaeton before going to Colombia but it quickly became one of my favourite genres by the time I left. Medellín influences Latin pop culture unlike any other city in Colombia. Reggaeton may have originated in Puerto Rico, but it has since found a natural home in Colombia. Many people even refer to Medellín as the Reggaeton capital of the world.

Salsa and Bachata are also such a huge part of the culture there so I had to give that a try as well. Moving my hips like a Latino isn't an easy objective and I'm still working on it but if you just show some effort then everyone is willing to teach you. Colombian people love to party. They will stay up all night drinking and dancing until the sun comes up.

One of the main differences between the West and countries like Colombia is the ability of the people to enjoy their time. Everyone in the West is usually on the go and working towards the next thing. Colombia on the other hand is one of those cultures where people like to live in the moment, let loose and have a good time.

All in all, my time in Medellín was incredible. To be honest with you, I had a hard time writing this piece because there is so much to write about that I probably need at least ten more pages to share all the stories and details. I can't put into words all the different experiences I lived through. I met some of the most amazing people and made connections that may last a lifetime. Not to mention learning a whole new language as well. Getting out of your comfort zone and going somewhere new is something I implore everyone to do if they are in a position to do it.

Travelling the world or just living in another country for a while is not as hard as people make it out to be. I've met countless people that come from all over the world and are able to do this simply because they work online. In today's world, it's easier than ever to get a remote job or learn a skill that can help you land a remote job. If you're feeling stuck in life and want to experience something new then sometimes all you need is a change in environment.

When I was on the balcony of my apartment in Poblado, I used to think of Medellín as one giant painting. That creative expression over the years led to the formation of one of the most unique cities in the entire world. I'll never forget my first day there when I saw the city from a bird's eye view. It was as if I had stumbled upon a whole new planet. The only thing this planet is missing is a beach. As I like to say in Spanish, Medellín tiene todo pero no playa. Which translates in English to: Medellín has it all but no beach.